At Revver we want to start a new conversation about Fashion and Education.
We believe that the next generation is shaping a new demand for Education in design in order to pursue Fashion creativity.
The future of social impact in Education starts now and we want to be part of it…
Family provides a sense of belonging: SU YUN I is a member of our family. She is a Fashion Design student from the Shih Chien University in Taiwan.
As a young generation of Asian designers, she is ready to embark on a challenging fashion path. Below, SU YUN I reveals the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic on the Fashion industry.
My name is SU YUN I, a very contradictory person who always impresses people but also stays low-key and calm at the same time. My creative inspirations are coming from my personal experiences. I think when you are a designer or for a fashion brand, you need to put your character into your work, this is the most important thing: what is more interesting than a unique and unpredictable individual?
時裝學院
在Revver，我們希望對於時尚與教育展開新的對話，我們認為下一代正在改變設計教育的需求，以追求嶄新的時尚創意。
教育對於未來社會的影響是一直都持續在發生的，所以我們希望能成為其中的一部分……
介紹
家庭給人一種歸屬感：蘇耘誼是我們家庭的一份子，她是台灣實踐大學服裝設計系的學生，身為年輕一代的亞洲設計師，已經準備好走上充滿挑戰的時尚道路。以下，蘇耘誼為我們揭示了COVID-19大疫情對時裝學院的影響。
自傳
我的名子叫蘇耘誼，一個非常矛盾的人，總是給人留下深刻的印象但同時又感覺低調、冷靜。
我的創作靈感常常就來自我自己，我認為對於一個設計師或時裝品牌來說，將自己融入於作品中是最重要的事情，有什麼東西比獨一無且變幻莫測的個體更加有意思？
COVID-19
In 2020, the COVID-19 pandemic has swept the entire world, and the fashion industry has been significantly impacted. For example, each year the major fashion brands held their Autumn/Winter fashion week events in the months of February and March but this year, due to the health situation most of those events have been either cancelled or have been postponed or they have been changed from the traditional fashion week format to a digital/virtual event. Indeed, the digital online format is an excellent solution in order to meet the new health security measures imposed by the pandemic situation. As a result, the organization of major fashion week events, in Paris, Milan and London has officially been turned into a digital fashion show event. For New York fashion week event, no announcement has been made yet.
2020年新冠狀病毒帶來得疫情席捲全球，時尚業也不例外，各大品牌舉行在每年2、3月份的秋冬季時裝週都陷入了取消、延宕、或改變傳統展演形式的狀況。數位化的線上展演方式，無疑是在現今狀況中的良好解決辦法，四大時裝周除了紐約時裝周還沒有對外宣布以外，巴黎、米蘭、倫敦時裝周官方都已經確認將轉變為線上的展出形式，就讓我們迎接這場劃時代的變革。
STUDENT LIFE
I am a student majoring in Fashion Design at Shih Chien University in Taiwan and I have been very much affected by the pandemic situation. Broadly speaking, the entire fashion industry is affected from upstream to downstream: from business to academia. In a narrow sense, we have been through enormous changes in our learning process such as online classes for those who have been infected or just simply wearing a mask in class when you can attend in person.
我是一名台灣實踐大學服裝設計系的學生，身為一位時尚設計系的學生，受到的影響也是非同小可，廣義來說，整個時尚圈從上游至下游、業界至學界必會受到波及，而狹義上，光是在我們的學習歷程上就受到了很大的改變，像是感染者只能透過線上教學的部分上課，能到班社課的學生也需要在上課間全程配戴口罩。
BEING A FASHION DESIGNER
The Shih Chien University fashion week, which is usually held in Taipei, Taiwan in April is an important event for our fashion department. For the sophomore year, we need to create an experimental series of fashion works in groups and for the junior year, we have to create a solo series of fashion works, and for the senior graduation year, we can choose to produce any kind of fashion works we want to create and it could be more experimental or more commercial, all options remain opened. Before the climax of the fashion week, everyone’s works would be selected within a preliminary round and then, the finalists can move forward to participate in the final.
每年４月在台灣台北舉行的實踐服裝設計服裝週是系上的重要大事，我們從大二開始每人要以分組的形式創作出實驗性質的一系列服裝作品，大三則是要獨立創作出一系列的時裝作品，大四的畢業製作可經自由意志選擇實驗組或時裝組。在服裝週決賽舉行之前會先進行初賽的選拔，入圍的人才能進一步參加決賽。
I just participated in the 2020 fashion week finals as a sophomore, which was very different from the previous years. What have we learned in that process? Basically, from the initial ideation and creative direction, to production, to contact photographers and studios to execute the photo shooting and to arrange models and to work out backstage activities, we all have to complete those steps by ourselves. If you ask what we have learned, in short: we have learned all the fundamentals of being a fashion designer.
今年大二的我剛結束今年與往年截然不同的服裝週決賽。那我們在此過程學到了什麼呢？基本上，從前端的打樣與製作，到中間的接洽攝影師與攝影棚拍攝形象照，再到後端的接洽模特兒、台步安排都要由我們自己一手包辦，如果說問我們到底學到了什麼，簡單來說我們學到了當一個服裝設計師該具備的一切基礎。
DIVERSITY IN TALENTS
In fact, we have been able to bring our self-understanding to another level with this experience. How did we do it? When looking at the initial concept to create a clothing fashion garment to the final stage when a customer can actually let your wear it, one can realize how this process is quite long and complicated, involving a variety of professionals and skillset. I would name this entire process as “supply chain” process because the supply chain is divided into four main stages: firstly, research on markets and trends, secondly design and development, thirdly production and finally sales. In these four stages, each stage requires different expertise and knowledge. In our fashion week students’ projects, we haven’t been involved in the back-end sales work, that’s the only area that we haven’t fully experienced. The first three stages have been covered and we looking forward to face commercial aspects of the industry. During this long four-stage process, we will gradually realize what are our strengths and weaknesses. For example, some people are not very keen on design but they have skillful techniques for sewing clothes, eventually they may become an outstanding tailor in the future for example; some people have an excellent understanding of the clothing structure, pattern maker is the perfect career for them to exert their talent; some people also always come up with new design ideas that amaze everyone, and some people have a great passion for photography… We will figure out where we can show the best of ourselves in order to achieve a career in this creative process. I think this is the biggest and the most precious reward for us.
更深入來說我們也一直在此過程中加深對自己認知，怎麼說呢？一項服裝設計的產品從最初的概念到讓你的潛在客戶穿戴在身上，過程是相當繁複，涉及了各種專業人員，這整個過程即所謂的「供應鏈」，此供應鏈分成四個主要階段：研究市場和趨勢、設計開發、生產、銷售。在這四個階段中，每一階段都有數個不同的職務，除了後端的銷售工作還未涉入以外，前三個階對我們都親自跑過了一遭，在這個過程中我們會漸漸發覺自己得長處與短處在哪，舉例來說有的人對於設計的敏銳度不高但卻擁精巧得製衣技術，那他未來就可以往裁縫師的路發展；有的人對衣服得結構有高於常人理解力，打版師則是能讓他發揮所長的職業；有的人總能冒出讓人眼睛為之一亮的新設計想法、有人對攝影情有獨鍾·······我們都將在這個過程中找到能在未來大展身手的位置在哪，我想這就我們最大的收穫。
THE PANDEMIC EFFECT
Given the impacts of the pandemic on this year Shih Chien fashion week event, especially the very strict anti-epidemic attitude of the Taiwan government prohibiting all the school’s large gathering, I think we need to recognize that all of this has been unprecedented. Just like the whole world, the fashion schools have also beenforced to cancel the traditional catwalk show. With the efforts of several excellent teachers and school department heads and with the support of the graduate associations, we have finally ushered in the first online fashion show.
說回這次冠狀病毒疫情對這次實踐服裝設計服裝週的影響，尤其在台灣政府嚴謹的防疫態度之下，學校舉辦大型集會是被禁止的，我想我們該意識到眼前的一切都是前所未有的，就和全世界一樣，學校也被迫取消了傳統的現場走秀展演形式，在學校幾位優秀指導老師與系學會、畢聯會的努力之下，我們迎來了第一個線上的服裝週與畢業展演。
We have used dynamic video to present our work. We have used space in a different way, for example the backstage have been turned into an art installation. During the whole process, the show director led models to perform with different body language to interpret the special temperament of each work. The photographer has used various shooting angles, and we have also used some drones to capture this incredible and creative dynamic. Besides, the shooting period was divided into the morning and evening sessions, and the night scene was set with more amazing stage design, including psychedelic lights and scattered smoke, which showcased and highlighted the artistic conception of the clothes. In the end, each different series of works have been visually captured into an independent short fashion movie. With the pandemic circumstances, we have adapted our communication and data sharing which means that the fashion school can send dynamic videos to designers, artists, and industry professionals around the world. The space constraints have been lifted and as long as they are willing to serve as jury, may experts all around the world can be consulted. This also means that our works can be exposed and assessed by a more diverse range of experts.
我們用動態錄影的方式來呈現作品，拍攝現場搭配裝置藝術形成了一個迷宮般的走道，模特兒著裝完成後走上
設計過後的走道，整個過程中專業的秀場導演帶領模特兒用不同的肢體語言詮釋每件作品不同的氣質，攝影師運用不同的運鏡和拍攝角度，其中也出動了空拍機，只為了捕捉到每個精彩的動態。除此之外，拍攝的時段也被分成了上午場與晚場，晚上的現場搭配更豐富的舞台設計，包括迷幻的燈光與肆散的煙霧，為服裝作品呈現出更完整的意境，最後每個不同的系列作品會被剪輯師搭配設計師自選的背景音樂製作成獨立的短片。在疫情間，我們調整了溝通和數據共享的方式，學校可以將動態展演的影片傳送給全世界的設計師、藝術家、業界人士······只要他們願意擔任評審，我們的作品就能接受來自全世界專家的審視，這也意味著我們能受更多元、更有世界觀的評比。
In the beginning, most of the students were full of fear in their minds to cancel the traditional fashion show, and I am no exception. After all, the event that should have been carried out has been suddenly hit by an unprecedented situation; hence people were scared to jump into something completely unknown. But after the whole thing has ended, gradually I have different opinion on things. Being digital is not just a trend in the fashion world; it is truly a transformation for the world. Isn’t the history of human development to advance technological progress whereby digital is simple a step toward a new normal: a lifestyle?
在最初大部分同學聽說要取消傳統的展演時每個人的心情都是充滿恐懼的，我也不例外，畢竟原本該順利進行的事件突然在某個時間點被打了一個大大的問號，人們對於未知總會本能性的產生抗拒。但在整件事情順利落幕之後我對事情有了不同的見解，數位化發展不只是時尚界的趨勢可以說是全人類的趨勢，人類發展的歷史不是不停的在推動技術進步嗎？所以這只是向新常態邁出的簡單一步，甚至可以說是一種新的生活方式吧！
CATALYST
I regard this pandemic situation as a catalyst for development and innovation. In forced situations, the fashion brands must make tremendous changes in a relatively short period of time. With the rapid growth of digital technology, the fast development and widespread use of big data made the customers more powerful, they are not only satisfied with buying goods, but they also want to influence and interact with the brand they engage with. The role of customers has changed from passive to active. As a new generation, due to this sudden outbreak, we have been exposed to digital & online show during our fashion school design curriculum. I think this has laid a very good foundation for our future. Digitalization has always been in the fashion industry and it will absolutely be strong driving force for the whole fashion industry.
而這次的疫情，我把他視為發展下的催化劑，在被迫的情形下時尚品牌必須在較短的時間內做出巨大的改變，數位化的技術快速增長，大數據的快速發展與廣泛使用使消費者具有更強大的能力，他們早已不僅僅滿足於購買商品，他們想與他們購買的品牌互動並去影響它，消費者的角色已從被動轉變為主導地位。而身為新一代的我們，由於這次突如其來的疫情，讓我們在就學期間提早接觸了線上的展驗形式，我想這幫我們的未來奠定了一個十分良好的基礎，數位化一直存在於時裝產業中，而它將絕對會繼續成為整個時裝業的強大動力。
Author and translation by SU YUN I
